LOEI

  • Loei province.
  • 86,000.

  • TAT, Udon Thani Tel: (0-4232-5406). 

  • daily.

  • Cotton Blossom Festival (Feb), Phi Ta Khon Festival, Rocket Festival (both May).

In Thai, the word loei  means “beyond” or “to the farthest extreme,” a fitting name for a town and province that lie in the northernmost part of Northeast Thailand, straddling the edge of the Khorat Plateau. Though the province is administrated as part of Isan (the Northeast), its climate and landscape are more similar to those of Northern Thailand. In winter it is cold and foggy, in summer searingly hot. In the past, bureaucrats who had fallen out of favor with the Siamese government, based in Bangkok, were posted to the remote town of Loei as punishment for their inefficiency. One fortunate aspect of Loei’s isolation is that it firmly retains its traditional flavor.

Lying along the west bank of the Loei River, Loei has a few sights of interest to visitors. There is a lively market by the bridge across the river, and next to the bridge is the Lak Muang  or “city pillar.” The town also has an old Chinese shrine, Chao Pho Kut Pong , a popular place of worship for the local people. The surrounding valley is rich in minerals and also produces some of the finest cotton in Thailand. Examples of this can be bought in Loei, in shops along Charoenraj Road and Ruamchai Road.

Loei also has a reasonable amount of cheap accommodations, making it a good base from which to visit Phu Rua and Phu Kradung national parks.

PHI TA KHON FESTIVAL

Although a less lively version of this festival is held in the provincial capital of Loei in July, its real home is in the town of Dan Sai, 80 km (50 miles) to the west. Here Phi Ta Khon takes place in June at the beginning of the rainy season. Its purpose is to make Buddhist merit and call for rain. The festival’s origins are in the Buddhist tale of Prince Vessandorn, the Lord Buddha’s final incarnation before he attained nirvana . Apparently, when Vessandorn returned to his city, the welcoming procession was so enchanting that the spirits emerged to celebrate. Today, the young men of Dan Sai dress up as spirits (phi ta khon) , draped in robes of patchwork rags and sporting painted masks made out of coconut tree trunks with huge, gaping mouths, beaklike noses, and wicker-basket crowns. During the three-day festival, they make playful jibes at onlookers as they parade a sacred Buddha image around the town. Monks also recite the story of Vessandorn to the crowd. On the third day, the “spirits” bring the festival to a close by circumambulating the main building of the local wat  three times, before finally casting their colorful masks into a nearby river.



Young men, dressed as spirits, preparing to parade a sacred Buddha around Loei town