DISCOVERING THAILAND

Thailand’s wide range of activities and attractions makes it the premier tourist destination in Southeast Asia. From sun-soaked beaches in the south, to hill-tribe villages in the mountains of the north, the country has an astounding number of beautiful locations, many protected as national monuments. Its main destinations, such as Bangkok, Chiang Mai, and Phuket, offer a heady mix of temples, markets, shops, and restaurants. Energetic visitors are also well catered for, with diving, kayaking, rock climbing, elephant riding, and trekking just a few of the exciting activities on offer. The following sections are designed to help visitors pinpoint the highlights of each fascinating region.

BANGKOK
  • Glittering temples
  • Canals and floating markets
  • Upscale shopping malls
  • Sizzling nightlife

Bangkok is a city of contrasts, with soaring skyscrapers next to tin-roofed shacks, and temples decorated with colored-glass mosaics snuggled up beside state-of-the-art boutiques. The city’s most unmissable sight is the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaeo, or Emerald Buddha Temple, full of beautiful art and architecture.

A good way to get a feel for the way the city used to be is to take a boat tour of the canals that fan off from the west bank of the Chao Phraya River. A trip to a floating market is an essential part of any visit to Bangkok and shows how virtually all commerce in the kingdom was once waterborne.

However, many visitors are more interested in Bangkok’s modern side, spending hours in the city’s shopping malls or sprawling markets in search of a bargain. After dark, the city comes into its own, with sensational cuisine served up in exotic settings, and music, cabaret, and the latest international sounds playing in dimly lit discos.

SOUTH CENTRAL PLAINS
  • The ruins of Ayutthaya
  • Khao Yai and Erawan national parks
  • The “Death Railway” at Kanchanaburi
  • Crossing into Burma via the Three Pagodas Pass

Forming part of Thailand’s “rice bowl,” the South Central Plains are largely agricultural, with shimmering rice paddies as far as the eye can see. The main cultural attraction is the ancient city of Ayutthaya, which was the capital of Siam for about 400 years. The remains of temples like Wat Phra Si Sanphet and Wat Phra Mahathat give an idea of the splendor of the site in the 16th century. Many people visit the city on a day trip from Bangkok, but history buffs should stay a little longer to explore some of the outlying temples. A little farther north, the town of Lop Buri  offers several attractive monuments, including King Narai’s Palace.

Hilly areas on both the western and eastern fringes of the region feature national parks. To the east lies Khao Yai National Park and, to the west, Erawan National Park, where the turquoise waters of the Erewan falls tumble over limestone ledges.

The laid-back town of Kanchanaburi, famous as home of the bridge over the Khwae Yai River, is popular for its museums and war cemeteries, as well as for its proximity to several national parks. Adventurous travelers can continue on from here to the Three Pagodas Pass and into Burma.

NORTH CENTRAL PLAINS
  • Splendidly restored temples at Sukhothai Historical Park
  • Kamphaeng Phet and Si Satchanalai-Chalieng
  • Burmese influences at Mae Sot
  • Birdwatching at Umphang Wildlife Sanctuary

The main attraction of this region is the ancient city of Sukhothai, which pre-dated Ayutthaya as the capital of Siam. The well-preserved ruins, which include more than 40 temple complexes, are set over a wide historical park and are worth exploring, since the art and architecture of this period are considered the pinnacle of Thai creative expression.

The nearby towns of Kamphaeng Phet to the southwest and Si Satchanalai to the north are rich in ancient monuments and huge stone Buddhas.

Phitsanulok is the region’s largest town, and its main attraction is the famous Buddha image in Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat. Smaller but more interesting is the town of Mae Sot, near the Burma border, where both the temples and the food have strong Burmese influences.

Also near the Burma border is the wildlife sanctuary of Umphang, which is rich in bird life and features Thi Lo Su, Thailand’s highest and most dramatic waterfall.

NORTHWEST HEARTLAND
  • Vibrant Chiang Mai
  • Beautiful Wat Phra That Lampang Luang
  • Trekking to hill-tribe villages
  • Doi Inthanon, Thailand’s highest mountain

The Northwest Heartland of Thailand is popular with visitors because of its wealth of attractions and activities. The ancient city of Chiang Mai captivates with its crumbling walls and moat around the old city; its fledgling modernity; countless temples, including Wat Phra That Doi Suthep on the hill behind the city; and local crafts.

Perhaps the most famous temple in the region is Wat Phra That Lampang Luang, near Lampang. Some parts of this graceful wat  date back to the 1400s.

The Northwest Heartland is ideal for trekking to hill-tribe villages or participating in one of many adventure sports: rock climbing, white-water rafting and kayaking, mountain biking, caving, and elephant riding. Cookery, massage, and meditation courses are also popular.

Several national parks in the region offer log-cabin accommodations and forest-walk trails. Doi Inthanon National Park, centered around Thailand’s highest mountain, attracts many unusual species of birds in the cool winter months.

FAR NORTH
  • The Golden Triangle
  • The ancient city of Chiang Saen
  • Wat Phumin’s 19th-century murals

Chiang Rai, the biggest town in the region, is the starting point for adventures in the mythical Golden Triangle. A good road network makes it easy to take in several of the main sights. The village of Sop Ruak is always busy with tour buses pausing to take pictures where the borders of three countries (Thailand, Burma, and Laos) converge; and the bustling border town of Mae Sai marks the country’s northernmost point.

To the east are Chiang Saen, home to evocative temple ruins dating back more than 700 years, and Nan, which features a fascinating museum and the lovely Wat Phumin, with its well-preserved murals.

KHORAT PLATEAU
  • Khmer temples at Phimai and Phnom Rung
  • Ancient artifacts at Ban Chiang
  • Surin Elephant Roundup
  • Yasothon Rocket Festival

This remote area in the northeast offers an appealing mix of Khmer temples, colorful festivals, and silk-weaving villages. The main town of Khorat is the best base from which to visit the Khmer temples at Phimai and Phnom Rung. Both have been carefully restored to their original splendor.

At the northern edge of the plateau, tiny Ban Chiang is home to one of Southeast Asia’s major archaeological sites; the National Museum here has a collection of precious bronze-ware and ceramics made in the area around 5,000 years ago.

Surin is famous as a center of silk production but also as the home of the Elephant Roundup . This festival takes place each November and gives the local Suay tribesmen the chance to show off their elephant-handling skills. Another colorful event is the Rocket Festival  in Yasothon. Each May, home-made rockets are launched to try to guarantee a good rainy season.

MEKONG RIVER VALLEY
  • Crossing the border to Laos
  • Climbing Phu Kradung
  • Wat Phra That Phanom
  • Exciting Phi Ta Khon Festival

The fertile valley that borders the Mekong River as it skirts northeast Thailand is the perfect place to get a taste of rural Thai life – and of Laos: from Nong Khai, it is just a short trip across the river to the Lao capital Vientiane.

Several national parks in this region offer excellent trekking territory, especially Phu Kradung, a magical plateau dotted with waterfalls in the northwest of the region.

The Mekong River Valley’s religious monuments show a strong influence from nearby Laos, in particular Wat Phra That Phanom, where the gold decoration on the stupa is an especially striking feature.

As with the Khorat Plateau, unusual festivals show the locals’ love of fun, none more so than the Phi Ta Khon Festival  in Dan Sai, near Loei. Each June, young men dress up as spirits, complete with colorful scary masks, and go around taunting onlookers in a playful manner.

EASTERN SEABOARD
  • Pattaya’s dual identity
  • Chanthaburi’s gems
  • Koh Samet’s sandy beaches
  • Diving off Ko Chang

Pattaya is famed for its buzzing nightlife: it must have more bars than any other similarly-sized Thai town. However, it also attracts families and offers a number of activities such as water sports, not to mention a great choice of restaurants.

Chanthaburi is a gem-mining town with a rich ethnic mix, including a large Vietnamese community. At weekends, its Gem Quarter is busy with people from all over the world. Within easy reach of the town are three rarely visited national parks that offer the chance to spot wildlife along the forest trails.

The islands of Ko Samet and Ko Chang offer plenty of opportunities for sun-bathing and swimming. Ko Samet is tiny and has some great beaches on the east coast but, being just a few hours’ drive from Bangkok, tends to get crowded at weekends. Ko Chang, Thailand’s second-largest island, is an excellent base for divers and has several idyllic, sunset-facing beaches, as well as inland trails to waterfalls.

WESTERN SEABOARD
  • White, sandy beaches of Ko Samui
  • Pristine Angthong National Marine Park
  • Phetchaburi’s sights
  • National parks for nature lovers

Beaches are the main attraction of this region, with the silky sands of Ko Samui providing the top draw. Samui’s neighbouring islands, Ko Pha Ngan and Ko Tao, have both achieved fame: the former for its full-moon parties and the latter for its superb dive sites. Another cluster of nearby islands makes up the Angthong National Marine Park.

On the mainland, Hua Hin enjoys the honour of being Thailand’s first-ever beach resort, popularized by the royal family in the 1920s. Just north of Hua Hin, Cha Am also attracts plenty of weekenders from Bangkok, though the beaches fronting both these towns cannot compare to those on the offshore islands.

Phetchaburi, at the northern end of the peninsula, is one of the country’s longest-inhabited towns and has several beautifully preserved temples and monuments.

Nature enthusiasts might like to check out the region’s two national parks: Kaeng Krachan, the largest in the country and little visited, and Khao Sam Roi Yot, literally “Three Hundred Peaks Park,” a reference to its distinctive limestone pinnacles.

UPPER ANDAMAN COAST
  • Phuket’s varied offerings
  • Diving off Ko Surin and Ko Similan
  • Rock climbing in Krabi
  • Trekking in the parks

Visitors flock to the island of Phuket, which is geared up to answer their every need, with luxurious resorts, international restaurants, well-stocked boutiques, and excellent beaches, the latter mostly located on the west coast. From here, few can resist a day trip to Phangnga Bay, where limestone stacks rise sheer from the sea. Phuket is also a good base for divers heading to Ko Similan and Ko Surin, which have the country’s best dive sites.

This region offers many other idyllic options for sun-seekers. Ko Phi Phi is famed for its back-to-back horseshoe bays, though it can get crowded.

Krabi attracts a younger crowd, particularly rock climbers who find a challenge in the sheer walls of limestone stacks around Railay.

At the nearby Khao Phanom Bencha National Park, visitors can trek to two impressive waterfalls; however, the most popular national park in the region is Khao Sok, where trails wind through dramatic scenery and boats can be hired for trips on the reservoir behind the Rachabrapha Dam.

DEEP SOUTH
  • Wat Phra Mahathat in Nakhon Si Thammarat
  • Historic Songkhla
  • Trang’s Andaman Islands
  • Tarutao’s deserted beaches

The Deep South is culturally distinct from the rest of the country, with the majority of the population practicing Islam. Sadly, in recent years, the actions of separatists have made it a dangerous area, though tourists have not yet been targeted. The towns of Nakhon Si Thammarat and Songkhla attract visitors with their interesting museums and ancient temples, especially Wat Phra Mahathat, one of the most sacred temples in the country.

Within easy reach of Trang is a cluster of islands, including Ko Muk  and Ko Kradan  (see Trang’s Andaman Islands), where a visitor might find perfect solitude. Farther south, the Tarutao National Marine Park offers some of the best diving sites in the world and the chance to leave civilization far behind.