The full majesty of Pico, the highest mountain in Portugal, becomes apparent when
it is seen from the neighbouring central islands. Only then does one realize how
gracefully this volcanic peak soars out of the Atlantic, shooting up 2,350 m
(7,700 ft) to form the summit of the greatest mountain range in the world, the
Mid-Atlantic Ridge.

The island’s capital, Madalena , is a relaxed port that lies
opposite Faial’s capital, Horta. A regular ferry service crosses the 8 km (5
miles) between the two islands, making a day trip feasible. The entrance to the
harbour is guarded by two rocks, Em Pé (standing) and Deitado (lying down) where
colonies of birds have made their home.

Many people come to Pico to climb its eponymous peak, which in winter is often
snow-capped and at other times can be wrapped in cloud. It is a strenuous climb,
best done in the company of a guide, and permission is required in advance. For
further details contact the tourist office.

The other main draw to Pico in summer is whale watching. From Lajes
do Pico  groups are taken out in small boats for three-hour trips
organized by the Espaço Talassa . They are guided by radio
messages from men who scan the sea for a fluke (tail) from the former vigias  (lookouts). The history of Azorean whaling is recalled
at the Museu dos Baleeiros , also in Lajes, where boats, tackle
and whalebone artefacts are displayed. The whales were processed at an immense
factory on the north side of the island at São Roque do Pico. Closed down in
1984, the Museu da Indústria da Baleeira  has been preserved as
a piece of industrial heritage, retaining the boilers where the blubber was
turned into oil.

A coastal road encircles Pico, offering a slow but rewarding drive that reveals
the charm of this slowly developing island. Minor eruptions in previous
centuries have covered parts of its landscape with black mole-hills of lava that
the islanders christened mistérios  (mysteries). The black lava
has been used to build houses and grids of stone walls that enclose fields or
shelter vines. In some places, notably around Cachorro  on the
north coast, the eroded lava has formed curious arches in the sea.

Pico’s famous Verdelho  wine is similar to the one made in
Madeira and was once exported to mainland Europe. In recent years there has been
a revival of viticulture on the island, and the production of new reds and
whites – such as the much acclaimed Terras da Lava  – allows
visitors a refined alternative to the ubiquitous vinho de
cheiro  (wine of smell) traditionally drunk by the Azoreans.