The “gracious” island is one of the most peaceful in the Azores. Only 12 km (7
miles) long, most of its low-lying land is given over to farms and vineyards
where ox-drawn carts and ploughs are still in use. The capital, Santa Cruz da Graciosa , on the northern coast, has a simple quayside
backed by rows of stark, twostorey, whitewashed houses with wrought-iron
balconies and oval windows. A small Museu da Graciosa  recalls
life on this sleepy island with a homely miscellany of toys, sea chests,
kitchenware, wine presses, furniture and mementoes sent back by emigrants to
North America. A building next door houses a whaling boat (see In pursuit of the whale).

The picturesque Monte da Ajuda that rises behind the town is capped by a
16th-century fortified chapel, Nossa Senhora da Ajuda ,
decorated with 18th-century tiles. Nearby, a small vigia 
(whalers’ lookout) faces the sea.

In the southeast lies the island’s principal sight, Furna do
Enxofre , where visitors can descend flights of steps into the bowels of
a volcanic crater. At the bottom is a huge cave with a deep, sulphurous lake and
peep-holes where bubbling brews of evil grey liquid can be spied beneath the
rocks. The best time to visit is late morning when the sun shines through the
small cave mouth and lights the interior.

Above the cave, at Furna Maria Encantada , a natural tunnel
through the rock leads to the edge of the crater. From here there are stunning
views over the island. Treatments using the island’s geothermal waters are
available at the coastal resort of Carapacho , at the foot of
the volcano.