One of the wildest areas in Europe, the reserve covers 70,000 ha (175,000 acres)
between Bragança and the border with Spain. The region, understandably, is known
as Terra Fria (Cold Land). Bleak mountains rise to 1,481 m (4,859 ft) above
heather and broom, descending to oak forests and valleys of alder and
willow.

Spectacular views of the park can be enjoyed from Vinhais , on
its southern fringe, and the wilderness attracts walkers and riders – mountain
bikes and horses can be hired locally.

The population clusters in farming communities on the lowlands, leaving much of
the Serra an undisturbed habitat for rare species such as wolves and golden
eagles, as well as boars, otters and falcons.

Little changed from medieval times, villages such as França  and
Montesinho  are typical in their stone houses, wooden
balconies and cobbled streets. Ancient practices such as herbal cures and
reverence for the supernatural linger, and ties are communal rather than
national: in Rio de Onor  Spanish and Portuguese have been
welded into a unique dialect, Rionorês.