MONSANTO
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1,500.
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Rua Marquês de
Graciosa (Tel: 277 314 642 ). -
3rd Sat.
An odd fame hit Monsanto in 1938 when it was voted “most Portuguese village in
Portugal”. The village is at one with the granite hillside on which it perches:
its lanes blend into the grey rock, the houses squeezed between massive
boulders. Tiny gardens sprout from the granite and dogs drink from granite
bowls.
The ruined castle began as a castro , a
Lusitanian fortified settlement, and suffered a long history of sieges and
battles for its commanding position. It was finally destroyed by a 19th-century
gunpowder explosion. Cars cannot venture beyond the village centre, but the view
alone is worth the walk up to the ruined walls.
A story is told of how a long siege by the Moors drove the hungry villagers to a
desperate ploy. They threw their last calf, full of their last grain, over the
walls, a show of profligacy that convinced the Moors to give up. Each May there
is a mock re-enactment of this victory amid much music and singing.
Monsanto’s houses, dwarfed by immense granite boulders