Present-day Sintra is in three parts, Sintra Vila, Estefânia and Sâo Pedro,
joined by a confusing maze of winding roads scattered over the surrounding
hills. In the pretty cobbled streets of the old town, Sintra Vila, which is
centred on the Palácio Nacional de Sintra , are the museums
and beautifully tiled post office . The curving Volta do Duche  leads from the old town, past the lush Parque da Liberdade , north to the Estefânia district and
the striking Neo-Gothic Câmara Municipal  (Town Hall). To
the south and east, the hilly village of São Pedro spreads over the slopes
of the Serra. The fortnightly Sunday market  here extends
across the broad market square and along Rua 1° de Dezembro.

Exploring Sintra on foot involves a lot of walking and climbing up and down
its steep hills. For a more leisurely tour, take one of the horse and
carriage rides around the town. The Miradouro da Vigia  in
São Pedro offers impressive views, as does the cosy Casa de
Sapa  café, where you can sample queijadas , the
local sweet speciality.

The many fountains dotted around the town are used by locals for their fresh
spring drinking water. Two of the most striking are the tiled Fonte Mourisca  (Arab Fountain), named for its Neo-Moorish
decoration, and Fonte da Sabuga , where the water spouts
from a pair of breasts.

This small museum has a fine collection of toys, ranging from model planes,
cars and trains, including 1930s Hornby sets, to dolls and dolls’ houses,
tin toys and clockwork models of cars and soldiers. There is also a
restoration workshop and a playroom with puppets and story tellers.

The Berardo Collection, gathered by entrepreneur Joe Berardo, is regarded as
one of the world’s best private collections of 20th-century art and includes
such big names as Magritte, Pollock, Bacon and Warhol. Located at the north
end of Sintra, it is a pedagogic exposé of movements and styles,
particularly those of the post-war era.

Built in the 1890s, this palace and extensive gardens are a feast of
historical and religious references, occult symbols and mystery. The
obsession of the eccentric millionaire António Augusto Carvalho Monteiro,
they are a must for anyone interested in esoterica.

Standing above the old town, like a sentinel, the ramparts of the 8th-century
Moorish castle, conquered by Afonso Henriques in 1147, snake over the top of
the Serra. On a fine day, there are breathtaking views from the castle walls
over the old town to Palácio da Pena, on a neighbouring peak, and far along
the coast. Hidden inside the walls are a ruined chapel and an ancient
Moorish cistern. For walkers, a steep footpath threads up through wooded
slopes from the 12th-century church of Santa Maria . Follow
the signs to a dark green swing gate where the footpath begins. The monogram
“DFII” carved on the gateway is a reminder that the castle walls were
restored by Fernando II in the 19th century.

A huge park surrounds the Palácio da Pena where footpaths wind among a lush
vegetation of exotic trees and shrubs. Hidden among the foliage are gazebos,
follies and fountains, and a Romantic chalet built by Fernando II for his
mistress in 1869. Cruz Alta, the highest point of the Serra at 530 m (1,740
ft), commands spectacular views of the Serra and surrounding plain. On a
nearby crag stands the statue of Baron Von Eschwege, architect of the palace
and park.