Most major international car hire companies are represented in Israel. Most have offices (or counters) at Ben Gurion Airport, in Tel Aviv and in Jerusalem. For the sake of convenience, it is better to use one that has a representative at the airport. To rent a car, you must have a full, clean driving licence (an international driving licence is not necessary). Cars are rented only to those over 21 years old, although some companies require that you be 23. Prices vary dramatically and it is recommended that you shop around before settling on a deal. Local companies, such as Eldan , frequently offer the best rates. Be aware that rental charges are usually quoted exclusive of insurance and collision waivers.

Note that it is not allowed to take cars hired in Israel over into Jordan or Sinai.

Car hire is not very popular in Jordan and Sinai because there are so few roads to explore. It also works out as very expensive when compared with getting around by other forms of transport, such as the bus or hiring a taxi for a day or two.

Petrol stations in Jordan, Sinai and even certain parts of Israel, particularly the Negev and Dead Sea areas, are few and far between. You are strongly advised to fill up your tank before setting off on any long journeys.

Driving in Israel is on the right-hand side of the road. At unmarked junctions drivers give way to traffic on the right, and overtaking is done on the left. The speed limit in towns is 50 km/h (30 mph) and 90 km/h (55 mph) on out-of-town roads. On some motorways the speed limit is 100 km/h (60 mph). Seat belts must be worn. Children under 15 must sit in the back and children under four must be restrained in a suitable child’s seat.

Although there is a lack of cautionary and warning signs on Israel’s roads, all places of interest are well indicated. Signs are in both Hebrew and English (and sometimes in Arabic too). A problem arises, however, with the lack of consistency in the transliteration of place names from Hebrew and Arabic into English. You could be following directions for Beersheba one minute and for Be’er Sheva the next. These are, of course, the same place. In this book we have tried to present place names as you will see them spelled on Israeli road signs but local inconsistencies mean that this is not always the case.

Cars in Israel and the Palestinian Autonomous Territories have licence plates of different colours. Israeli cars have yellow plates, while Palestinian cars’ plates are blue or green. It is inadvisable to drive a car with yellow, Israeli plates into Palestinian areas, particularly frequent troublespots such as Hebron and Ramallah. Cars hired in Israel are usually not insured for the Palestinian Territories. Conversely, driving a car with Palestinian plates in Israel will make you the object of a great deal of unwelcome attention from the security forces.

While driving is on the right, Jordanians seem to consider most other road rules open to interpretation. Overtaking takes place on both sides of the road and right of way goes to he or she who hesitates least. Roads are often in a poor state of repair. Many are badly surfaced, and road markings are often absent.

Speed limits are generally 100 km/h (60 mph) on open roads and 40 km/h (25 mph) in built-up areas. Care is needed on desert roads, where drifting sand can put the car into a spin if hit at speed.

Direction signs are frequently positioned right at the junction, offering no advance warning and making it all too easy to drive past your turn-off.

There are very few roads in Sinai, so routes to drive are limited. They do, however, pass through some stunning scenery. Traffic is light but what traffic there is, is mainly composed of buses and large shared taxis; these generally travel at high speed, paying little heed to other road users. Car drivers must constantly be on the lookout and be prepared to take evasive action.

Other than on recognized trails, off-road driving is not encouraged as it can damage the fragile desert environment. Several such trails begin in the region of Nuweiba.

Traffic in and around Tel Aviv and, to a lesser extent, Jerusalem is nightmarish. You should aim to avoid rush hour, which is roughly 7–9am and 4–6pm. That said, it is not unknown to encounter traffic jams in Tel Aviv at 1am.

Known in Israel as tremping , hitch-hiking used to be a common way of getting about the country. It was particularly popular with soldiers heading home or returning from leave. But recently hitch-hiking has become increasingly unsafe. Women soldiers are now banned from hitching and we recommend visitors do not hitch-hike either.

Parts of Israel are excellent places for cycle touring. The best regions are Galilee and the Golan Heights, where the scenery is at its most varied and the altitude serves to moderate the extreme summer temperatures. Even so, from June to August it is best to plan to cycle only in the mornings, to avoid the afternoon heat.

In Tiberias, it is possible to hire bicycles by the day to explore the shores of the Sea of Galilee. In Jerusalem you can rent bicycles by the day from Walk Ways , who will deliver to your hotel. For general cycling advice and to enquire about joining organized rides, enthusiasts could also try contacting the Jerusalem Cycle Club .