HEMIS MONASTERY

  • Leh district. 43 km (27 miles) SE of Leh.
  • daily.

  • Annual Hemis Festival (Jun).

Tucked away up a winding glen in the mountains south of the Indus, Hemis is the largest as well as the richest of the central Ladakh monasteries. It was founded in the 1630s as a Drugpa establishment by King Sengge Namgyal, and continued to be the most favoured monastery of the Namgyal dynasty. Of its several temples, the most rewarding is the tshog-khang , a secondary assembly hall which contains a fine image of the Buddha in front of a huge silver chorten  set with flawless turquoises.

Hemis is also renowned for its spectacular annual festival, dedicated to Guru Padmasambhava, the 8th-century Indian apostle who took Buddhism to Tibet. A unique feature of this festival, which is held in the summer and attracts huge crowds, is the 12-yearly unveiling of the monastery’s greatest treasure – an enormous, three-storey high thangka  of Padmasambhava, embroidered and studded with pearls and semi-precious stones. The next unveiling of the thangka  is due in 2016.

THE MONASTIC DANCE-DRAMAS OF LADAKH

The dance-dramas performed at Ladakh’s annual monastery festivals are immensely popular events, constituting a link between popular and esoteric Buddhism. Attended by high lamas and novice monks in their ceremonial robes and hats, as well as by local families dressed in their splendid traditional costumes, these events are a vibrant expression of age-old cultural and religious values. The dancers, representing divine or mythological figures, wear colourful brocade robes and heavy masks as they perform ceremonial dances around the monastery courtyard. The solemnity of the occasion is lightened by comic interludes performed by dancers in skeleton costumes, who bound into the arena performing agile gymnastics, and caricaturing the solemn rites just enacted, to the delight of the assembled spectators. In the climactic scene the masked figures ritually dismember a doll moulded from barley flour dough (perhaps symbolizing the human soul) and scatter its fragments in all directions. Besides attracting large numbers of outside visitors, these monastery festivals also provide people from far-flung Ladakhi villages an eagerly awaited opportunity to meet each other, and exchange news and views.



Masked dancers at a monastery festival