Red sandstone battlements give this imperial citadel its name, Lal (“Red”) Qila (“Fort”). Commissioned by Shah Jahan in 1639, it took nine years to build and was the seat of Mughal power until 1857 when the last Mughal emperor, Bahadur Shah Zafar, was dethroned and exiled. Today, the Red Fort remains a powerful symbol of Indian nationhood. It was here that the national flag was hoisted for the first time when India became an independent nation on 15 August 1947.

Entry is through Lahore Gate . One of the fort’s six gateways, this leads on to the covered bazaar of Chatta Chowk , where jewels and brocades were once sold. Beyond this lies the Naqqar Khana , a pavilion where ceremonial music was played three times a day.

A path from here leads to the Diwan-i-Aam , a 60-pillared, red sandstone hall where the emperor gave daily audience to the public. The emperor sat beneath the lavishly carved stone canopy, while the low bench in front of it was for his chief minister. Beyond this hall is the Rang Mahal . Inside its gilded chambers, once exclusively for women, is an inlaid marble fountain shaped like an open lotus.

Nearby, is the Khas Mahal , the emperor’s royal apartments with special rooms for private worship and for sleeping. The Robe Room (“Tosh Khana”) has a superb marble jali  screen carved with the scales of justice, a motif seen in many miniature paintings. North of the Khas Mahal is the Diwan-i-Khas , built completely of white marble. The legendary Peacock Throne, embedded with priceless jewels was kept here until it was taken away as war booty by the Persian chieftain Nadir Shah in 1739. The walls and pillars of this exclusive pavilion, where the emperor met his most trusted nobles, were once inlaid with gems. The ceiling was of silver inlaid with precious stones.

A little further away are the Hamams  (Royal Baths) with inlaid marble floors and three enclosures. The first chamber provided hot vapour, the second scented rosewater through sculpted fountains, and the third cold water.

To the west of the baths is the elegant little Moti Masjid  (“Pearl Mosque”), named after the pearly sheen of its marble. It was built by Emperor Aurangzeb in 1659.