Understandably, Jamaica does not make too much of an issue about its colonial past, but the era of plantation slavery comes to the fore east of Montego Bay in the form of two palatial great houses that have been opened up as tourist attractions, both of which are signposted from the main coastal highway. Buses along the highway pass the entrances to Rose Hall and Greenwood.

Closest to Montego Bay is Rose Hall Great House, the former home of the “White Witch” Annie Palmer. She came to Rose Hall as the wife of its owner, John Rose Palmer, and soon unleashed a reign of terror. Her wicked deeds are made much of by the tour guides. The supposedly haunted house has been slickly refurbished in period style, with lavish furnishings and antiques. The tours start from the gift shop which has displays of old photographs.

Far more atmospheric, Greenwood Great House is also a more handsome structure, commanding amazing coastal views and filled with original fittings and curiosities. The house once belonged to relatives of the renowned British poet, Elizabeth Barrett Browning. Today it has a large and rare collection of musical instruments as well as a library.